THE RUINS OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL MONUMENTS OF GREECE: WORK DIVIDED INTO TWO PARTS, where we consider, in the first, these monuments on the side of history; and in the second, on the side of Architecture. FIRST PART. The measures taken in Rome, to make a successful trip to Greece, I went to Venice on April i, 17J4, to await the departure of Mister Knight Donat, who had granted me the honour of accompanying him in his Embassy at the Porte. My wishes were soon satisfied. I came to warn there on May from this Ambassador, (called Baile by the Venetians,) to return to me the same day on the Saine Charles, a vessel of 80 pieces of cannon; he embarked there in the evening with the whole suite, & we left at night. We first went to Castel-Nuovo on the coast of Istria, a fortress where the warships which leave Venice or return there, take or deposit their artillery, because of the shallows which surround this City. Taking advantage of the time during which, we armed our ship at Cassel-Nuovo, we were to see Pola, (who is only forty thousand away), Count Spolverine of Verpnne, Prjuli noble Venetian, and me. This City, although not very significant today, was formerly a famous Republic as different inserts & medals prove. It even seems that the Arts have come out of it, by several Monuments that we still see there, and particularly by two magnificent Temples, little dazzling from each other, & entirely similar. One is so ruined & so embarrassed in hovels that it has escaped the research of Miss Spon & Wheler, famous modern Voyageurs; the other is almost entirely: I will give the description. Historical description of the Temple of Poia in, Istria. V / E Temple, represented Plate I, can be put by its beauty to the rank of the most precious-relies of Antiquity. The inscription of the rule tells us that it ruts aerie an ivome, no more; wider than their lower diameter. I was very much surprised, having made to reside on one side & the other of this', flower bed in different places & with enough extent on the side of the interior of the Temple, to find absolutely nothing which. could indicate to me that he never had any paving stone. It was not without difficulty that I succeeded in taking in the woods, with some precision, the height of the columns; I only succeeded by measuring his marquee very ruined, and successively all the seats, which were little disturbed in their fall. I saw in the debris of this Temple no inscription which could enlighten me on the time of that construction. But as it was also impossible for me to find no fragment of architrave, frieze & cornice, that the proportion of its columns was very short, & that a second very whole capital (which I discovered after more than a day of research ) bears the imprint of the first idea that men had by inventing the Doric order and I judged, as I have already said, that this Temple was of very remote antiquity. I even imagined that all the parts of his entablature may well have been made of wood, as was done in the early days of the Architecture. f. WHAT could still support this feeling, it is that having blown up an afsise of these colonies, with levers, - to see how they were united, I found a singularity that made me very happy. 'est. that they were linked with keys of a red wood, quite hard ,, which was biëji eerisesv.é: -; The' holes which were in each seat in which they engaged, -were three inches wide, & four inches deep. The marble of this Temple was very imperfect. "X'iB'tE'L'.OS-GÙE. Which we discover in the same view, behind our little girl.,. Is too famous not to speak about it. Strabo, Pliny & Pomponius-Mela name it Hélène or Cra-naée. Paùsanias, in his Attiques, calls her ausli Hélène, but he places elsewhere the isle which carries the last nickname., Vis-à-yis.Gythéé, he says in his Laconic 'isle de Crahàée where Homère says that Paris having kidnapped Hélène,' enjoys its conquest for the first time. Anyway, "Throw: isle.ést àbsolurrierit deserted, as it was already in Strabo's time. Tournefort. 'In his. Traveling from the Levant, having reason to raise Pliny who places it at the same (sinance of Cape CsilèhnE &' de l'isle 'de Zeâ;' it 'is five miles from the cape, & -to twelve from Zea. We left Attica fourteen days after arriving there, & having set off (ix days at anchor near the southernmost cape of Ségre de Négrepont, in the place where the ancient city of Caristos was, we set out, & two days later we anchored between the saddle of Tenedos and the shore of Troy. The Bailes of Venice do not have the privilege, like the Ambassadors of France & of England, to go as far as the port of Constantinople with their vessels. The Turks having removed from the Venetians the most beautiful issues of the Archipelago, & still fearing some sirpriie on their part, send from the Galleys to take their Ambassador & all his suite to the port of Tenedos: we found there indeed two who were waiting for us. No sooner were we embarked there, that the wind having become contrary, it seemed to favour the project that we had formed some people & me to go to see the ruins of Troys; but the Ambassador did not allow us to do so, having said that he was running brigands on this coast. We did not even have the satisfaction of visiting the City of Tenedos, in front of which we stayed for two weeks at anchor. There reigned there a violent shovel, from which we were preserved only by an elpece of miracle, "the Levantis of our galleys going to this city daily, &. Then coming to mingle with us. - The wind having become favourable to us, we moved away without regret from these famous places G, & having directed our route towards the North, we entered the famous Strait of Hellespont or Dardanelles canal *, which separates the Donkey Europe. We sail between two castles which defend the entrance, and which are three miles from its mouth & eight of them between them. They salute us, as well as two others, that we found twelve miles beyond, & we did not see without fear the cannonballs fired from these slow down our galleys, & palser from Europe to Asia, & from Asia to Europe, by forming ricochets on the surface of the water11: these second castles being only two miles from each other, & much narrowing the channel in this place, so much increase the current which comes from the Black Sea, which our galleys, which had overcome by force of oars the headwind until then, were forced to stop there. The wind having subsided, we continued our route, & having relaxed in some places of this channel, & at the isles which are in the middle of the Sea of ??Marmora, so that at the port of the ancient Heraclea, we finally arrived at Constantinople on September 13, 1754, after having suffered much for fifty-two days on the Turkish galleys. Constantinople looks like the Capital of the World; & there is no city on earth that one can compare to it for its plate, nor which is more advantageously lit, to undermine a large part of this hemisphere. If the alpa of this city is very beautiful, the interior, on the contrary, is very unpleasant. I had reason to convince myself of this by going to see Antiquities, the Royal Mosques, some Kiosks, the Aqueducts, & c. I also saw during my stay at Constantinople the magnificent feast of little Bairam, & M. le Baile did me the honour of being one of the people he chose to accompany him to his Audience with the Great Lord. The day of this ceremony, having been led to the Divan by the Visir, he returned the Juslice there before us. He made us after dinner in this room, from which having entered the second courtyard of the Serrail, we were dressed in cafetans, & we entered the number of twelve, supported, or rather held under the arms each by two Capigi-Bachi , even in the Great Lord's courtroom. The Sultan was placed on a magnificent throne; he had the Visir standing on his right, his hands crossed over his stomach with great respect; to his left the Ambassador seated on a small stool, & we who had the honour of being in his suite, we were standing behind him. By this arrangement the Ambassador did not see the Grand Lord from the front, but only in profile. The deepest silence reigned in this room. When the Drogman interpreted the Baile's Speech, he was pale & trembling. If these Interpreters are daring enough not to be intimidated when they speak to the Great Lord, they claim to appear by respeâ; several of them having lost their lives for a misplaced word. The Great Lord having heard the compliment of 'See the beautiful description of this Canal S: from what we see most remarkable, in Tournesort, Voyage du Levant. The Turks claim that several cannons from the castles of the Çardanelles were probed by the order of Muhammad II in his campdevanrBaby! One: they are so big that their mouth that we are insurmounted is more than two feet open. Here is what we observed there: all these cannons are chambered; they are of two sgal parts, one on the side of the mouth, the yard on the side of the culassc: the circumference of the barrel at the place of their junction, has two lantern pins which are body with each piece of the barrel & ex-cedes its general size, the thickness of their suseaux, that makes me suspect that a parts of the barrel could be screwed & the other in nut, & that by engaging these lanrernes in the teeth of a jack, or of a wheel, & seizing to turn each of the parts ïrt opposite direction, one made maintenance the screw in the nut, until the parts are well united. Pambasseur, contented himself with saying a few words to the Visir, who made all the answer for him. 'I'm not talking about all the diamonds, all the rubies, all the pearls of the throne, & carpets spun with gold & silk this building whose plasond was made up of large pieces of marble. 11. Two Veftibules which accompanied the façade decemo- "nument: celuidelâ'droîté estniiné '&' serveaujourd'hui.de prison, 12.-Room that I suspect to be that of the Paintings of which Pausanîas speaks, which was adjoining to the Propylaea, 13. Piedeftal'gui & utenoit one of the two Statues which were in front of the Propylaea. 14. the Theater 15. Tlîéatta dexx orchestra 16. The Scene. 17. The bleachers. 18. Cave where was a tripod on water was represented by Apollo 20. Monument raised by Thras / llus in memory of a vïftoïre which he won in Athletic games, today the portal of a Church called by the Greeks Panagia Spiliotissa. 21. Interior of the Panagia SpiliotùTa Church. 22. Main gate of the Citadel. 23. Descent to go to the Theater 24. Citadel Guardhouse. 25. Different gun batteries. 26. Different masses of houses of the Turks. 27. Old citadel cistern. 28. Place where I suspect that the cave is where the Athenians pretend that Apollo enjoys Erefthee. 29. Southern wall destroyed others by the Persians & rebuilt by Cîmon. Septenttîonal wall in which we see opposite the Temple of Ereftheus of the Doric sragments of the same prosil as that of the Temple of Apollo in Delos, which leads us to suspect that they could be of the first Temple of Minerva ruined by the Persians, damage by the beauty & the magnificence of the one that Pericles raised to this Divinity, by letin & by Callicrates, famous Greek Architects. IV. View of the Temple of Minerva. Hécatompédon, is sinie in the middle of the rock of the Citadel which dominates by its height all the plain of Athens. We see this superb building from a great distance, by whatever road we reach this city by land, and we perceive it from the entrance to the golphe d'Engia. If its greatness and the whiteness of the marble with which it is confused imprint, as soon as it is discovered, a feeling of admiration, cracked, the proportions, and the beauty of the bas-reliefs with which it is adorned, do not satisfy less, when you look at it closely; & we can see that Actine Se. Callicrates did all they could to distinguish themselves in the Architecture, by erecting a Temple to Minerva who had invented this beautiful Art. This Temple forms a parallelogram by the plan, like almost all those of the Greeks & the Romans. Its length, which is from east to west, is two hundred and twenty-one feet; its width of ninety-four feet ten inches, without counting the steps which surround it. It is of Doric order; he was Oclostyle Periphery, that is to say, he was surrounded by a line of cp-. isolated lones of the cella or body of the Temple, which formed a portico all around, if there were eight on the face. The lateral faces of the body of the Temple were two smooth walls, with no pilasters at the ends. The large Doric columns which surround the Temple externally are five feet eight inches in diameter, & thirty-two feet in height. There were forty-six in the perimeter of this building. They have no basis; but the steps which line the base of these columns, and which are very high, seem to serve them. They support a Doric entablature which is almost a third of the height of the columns, & whose ftise is adorned in the metopes of bas-reliefs which represent the combat of the Athenians against the Centaurs. We can also see on the linked walls of the body of the Temple fragments of a beautiful frieze which swirls all around; the figures above appear to represent scripts and procedures of the ancient Athenians. The sculpture of this frieze has less relief than that of the Centaurs who are outside the Temple; which proves less a difference in time in these works, than the skill of the Architects who have given a lot of prominence to the bas-reliefs which are outside, because they reveal to be seen from a great distance; it even seems that this principle has been followed in the sculpture which adorns the pediments. They were. each loaded with a group of beautiful marble figures, of which those which appear from below as large as nature .; .they are in full relief, & wonderfully worked. Pausanias informs us that in the pediment of the front facade was represented the birth of Minerva. Spon, who saw this bas-relief before its ruin, gave us a more extensive description; he instructs us that the Statue of naked Jupiter, as the Greeks ordinarily represent it, was under the angle of the pediment, which he had on his right Minerva dressed rather in the habit of Dessess of Sciences than of War, seated on a chariot , including a figure, whom he takes for a Victory, led the horses. They are comparable, he says, to those of Phidias & Praxitelle; it seems ford one sees in their air a certain fire & a certain pride which inspires them this Divinity. Behind the chariot of the Goddess we saw a seated woman holding a child on her lap, and on the same side the Statue of Emperor Adrien & that of Empress Sabine; finally to the left of Jupiter were five or six standing figures qpe pet Author takes for the circle of the Gods in which Jupiter wants to introduce Minerva. It would be wrong to conclude from the representation of Adrian in the pediment of the facade of this building, that this Emperor had it rebuilt; the genre of its Architecture indicates that it was built in the time of Pericles; & we notice that the Figures with which the fronts were adorned, & which are of a marble whiter than the rest of the monument, had been removed there after the fact & did not form a body with the surface of the eardrum. The pediment, of the back facade of this Temple represented the fight of Minerva against Neptune, that's what we can learn from it. With regard to the interior, it had not been neglected, one crossed a spacious vestibule before entering it, although it was very dark, being lit only by the door as the Greeks practiced in their Temples ; we had however decorated it,. selon M. Spôn, Se deux colonnades> donttfn now finds no dizziness: They form two galleries, one above and the other below. It is in this sanctuary that was enclosed this beautiful Sta-tue of Minerva made by Phidias, of which Pausanias gave us the description: "She was, says *> this Author ;, of gold & r of ivory: from the middle from his helmet rose a sphinx; the two sides of the case that were held by two grisfons: it was straight; his tunic descended to the end of his feet; on his stomach there was a Medusa head in ivory, & near the Goddess a Victory four cubits high. Minerva held a spade in his hand; Ion shield was at "Tespieds; press sa-pique; below, we saw a snake, symbol of 'Eriâh'Oniûs,' & surie piedeÇ tal which therejbutenait a bas-relief which represented Pandora. The Athenians made pompous sacrifices to this Divinity in feasts which were celebrated in his honour, according to some Authors, every three years, according to others after five years (progress r in these feasts the old men holding in hand olive branches, advance to the sanctuary of the Temple, they lift the veil which covered the Summer, where 1 were represented, - its report of the people, "were heroic. 'we sacrificed lé bcéùF' Minerva, It This feisbit "of preocessions around the Temple; & when the sacrifice was completed, we heard the trumpet &" voix du Cursor ", which announced the beginning of the games, whose women were; êxclusesV Finally we know that Minerva was the Divinity that the Athenians most respeâé, FoKvièi'-was dedicated to him; was d e this plant, that the Athenians were immortal The Magnificent Temple of Minerva has been preserved for a long time in all its beauty, even though Athens has changed from Masters. ' The Christians who took this city made this monument profane a Temple to the true God, & the Turks who seized it afterwards changed this building; en'rirosqu'éé; MM.- Spbn '& "1 $? Heier, during their stay in Attica, had the happiness of-the voif-toufrentier ériiiSys"' '; but in • 1677, the' Provider Morosmi having besieged Athens, at the " head of 88 && - sôldatS 'Vénitiens, A bomb fell on this Temple, set fire to the ammunition of powders' that 'the Turks tovbient' contained there; which ruined it by destroying most of it: This General ', in the aim of enriching the country with the remains of this superb monument,' contributed still 'to saruinèl He wanted to have the Statue of Minerva removed from the pediment, Ibn chariot & his ch'e-. Worth; but to his great regret & to ours, he defigused this masterpiece, without profiting from it. Part of the group ternba & 'terrè &' & smashed. "The Turks" built from the Mosque crowned with a low dome that Ton "sees in the middle from the ruins" of this Temple ". We would end its description with examination; of what could have made him give the name of Hécàtompédon by the Ancients, 'if this dissertation does not become inevitably long: it is for this reason that we have referred it to the end of this first Part. V. HISTORICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE TEMPLATE OF ERECTHESIS If the Athenians honoured Minerva as the protector of their city, they did not less revere Ceres to whom they offered solemn sacrifices in the celebration of his mysteries at Eleusis; Ereâhëe, tin of their Kings, selon Diodose of Sicily, taught them the cult of this Divinity which presided over plowing, & it is perhaps in recognition of this benefit that they erected a Temple- to "this Prince" in the citadel of their city, a short distance from that of Minerva that I have just described. LVcônuruSion of this monument; '' the invasion of Peres in Greece under the leadership of Xerces, as has been said of all the Monuments of Athens; but it must be placed before Adrien's time. I judge "by some 'peculiarities of the Ionic orders which decorate it; & it is the only way to discover more or less in what time' this monument was destroyed, since there is no Biscsiption there, & that Pausanias, nor 'the other Historians, do not teach us when, & by whom it was raised; a singularity which made me recognize it, it was that it was double , as Pausà-riias-'lé says :, but I took this expression in another sense than Messrs. Spon Si Wheler, who heard that there were two Temples, one next to the other : instead of I think that of the two Temples of which the ancient Author speaks, one was above the other: which is remarkably conspicuous by the great difference in the pavement of the two veslibules which lead, one by the side in the lower Temple, the other by the face in the upper Temple. We see the first of these veslibules on the left in the design that I made: the other is not visible in the In this view, the Ionic columns, between which we see three crossings, decorate the side of the Temple which looks at the sunset. The great smooth pedestal which supports them, a large part of which is buried, answered, selon me, to the Lower Temple: it is in this that there was this marvelous well of salt water, which the south wind made noisy, in the report of Pausanias, & which was covered with a stone, on which was imprinted the figure of a trident, mark of the old pretension of Neptune on the Atti-que: the Athenians like to MM. Spon & Wheler, that this well still subsists of their time; but they could not verify it, and I was not happier than them, because of the heaps of marble which cover the pavement of the Temple; with regard to the small edifice whose entablature is supported by caryatids, & which we notice in this view leaning against the Temple of Ereâhée, it is quite extraordinary that Pausanias does not teach us its use , & let it remain silent on the six caryatids which adorn it, of which it still remains five fairly well preserved, & of a very great beauty. Would this monument be after this Author's journey? or would it be by negligence that he would have omitted to speak about it? It is difficult to clear up these doubts; but it is not so much to assure, that in some time that the Temple of Ereâhée had been consire, it is one of the most precious resies of Antiquity by the beauty of the Ionic orders which adorn it , by the perfeâion, the richness, and the singularity of their capitals, of which we had no knowledge, & pat the entablature which crowns the caryatids, which is also very beautiful, & was also unknown to us. VI. Historical description of the Properties. Sl the ancient Authors have spoken little of the Temple of Ereâhée, they have praised almost all the envy the magnificence of the veslibules, whose ruins I have represented, Plate VI, through which we pass, entering the famous Citadel of 'Athens. In fact, the Athenians who had decorated their city with the most superb monuments, particularly prided themselves on the construction of the Propylaea. They even told that the Degee Minerva, to mark her approval of this building, taught Pericles, while he was sleeping, a medicine with which he cures a famous worker who fell from the top of this monument. Mnesiclès, famous Greek Architecture, gave the design of these magnificent veslibules: they were started under the Euthymene Archon, the fourth year of the LXXXV Olympiad: they were completed five years later under the Pythodore Archon, & cost two thousand and twelve talents to build. PAUSANIAS says that these veslibules were covered with a white marble, which, either for the size of the stones, or for the ornaments, is all that he had seen elsewhere more beautiful: for what regards the Equestrian Statues (says it), I cannot say if we avoulurçpresent the son of Xenophon, or if they were put there only for decoration. Harpocration influences us according to Heliodore of a peculiarity of this monument that Pausanias has omitted; is that it was pierced with five doors. These marks that the old Authors left us to recognize the Propylaea are striking, even in the state of ruins where this edifice is currently located. It is astonishing that the modern Voyageurs who have seen it less ruined than I, have all overlooked it. Spon thought it was a Temple, because there was a pediment on the facade; Fanell calls him, with the vulgar, the Lycurgian arsenal; Wheler seems to be the one of these three Authors who met best on this subject. After saying that it was difficult to determine whether this monument was the arsenal of Lycurgus, a Temple, or another building, he adds: Would it not be the Propylaea? but he gives no proof of his seniment: it even seems that he did not know better the whole and the disposition of this masterpiece of Architect, than Spon & Fanelli. Here is what I observed while measuring it. The saçade that we see, composed of six Doric columns without entablature, engaged. Without a bad wall, close five between-columns: the middle one is the tallest. those at the corners are the smallest. There are five doors on the wall opposite this facade which correspond exactly to the five between-columns of the facade. All these doors are twice the height of their width: the largest is twelve feet seven inches wide, the bottom two eight feet and eight inches, and the two smaller four feet four inches; the latter two are more difficult to see than the other three, because they are buried to the top, and I admit that I had '.' I'd hardly recognize them. If this peculiarity of the five doors that I discovered the first in the ruins of this building which is at the entrance of the citadel of Athens, seems: to show that it was the Propylaea, in accordance with what we have learned from Suidas & Harpocratioh, I found proof as strong as this that Fausanias advances on the greatness of the stones which hold the ceiling. I have mixed the debris of this ceiling under the vaults which I cover; one of the principal beds of marble, broken by the two ends, is more than ten feet from Paris, of length; 'It was one of the nine species of seamable beams which supported all its cover, & "which each had more than sixteen' of these feet. Another whole flowerbed, which I measured, which covers the large door, at almost twenty-two feet. It is: 'without doubt the greatness; of these pieces of marble which Pausanias praised in speaking of this building; at Ephesus, which the Goddess, according to the opinion of the Greeks, had weighed; herself, because of her gravity, had only thirty Roman feet, which correspond to a little more than twenty-seven feet from Paris. But. who finished convincing me that the monument in question was the Propylaea. In this I found a very beautiful pedestal which formed part of it, and which was placed in front, as well as another similar which has been destroyed; These two pedestals were distant from each other by one; little more than the width of the main facade, from which they were thirty-four feet apart, a space which is lulled by steps. While searching for the use of these two pedestals, I could not discover any other. * I must have worn the Equestrian Statues of which Pausanias speaks; for although this Author laughs "said" not precisely that these Statues merge on these pedestals, he does not say either that they were on the roof, as Meursius translates. Father Gédoin immediately followed this error; by interpreting thus the sharing of 'Paulânias': "I could not, he says, know' who we wanted to represent 'by the' St'àtuêsquestre that we placed on these vejlibules. These last words are not in the text. It must be translated, as I have done above: As far as the statues are concerned, I have no need to know if these are the sons of Xenophon, or if they were only used for decoration. This shows that Pausanias, in his text, says that these equestrian statues contributed a great deal to the ornamentation of these vestibules; but he does not say that they were above, and I believe I am authorized to think that they were on the large pedestals placed in front of the main body Se this 'monument, & put' there probably to receive them. What can further strengthen this opinion ", is that it is Terrible that the Architect, in constructing these pedestals, wanted to adjust to the shape of the horse; because the sides parallel to the face of the edifice are narrower than the others: which seems to indicate in a perceptible way that the Statues are leaning from the front when one arrived there. The keys from the Propylaea were resized every day in the hands of the Epissate: the Archon. Qvtf gouvérrsoit la-vifl (c) of Athens. A C0NF0RMlTE ': that I have just seen between the monument of which I speak, & what its ancient Authors taught us from the Propylaea, proves enough that it was neither the arsenal of Lycûsgûë-, nor a Temple , but a 'magnificent' port brought from the Citadel of Athens, or the Propylaea built by Pericles. There is reason to believe that this monument began to lose its shape when the Turks seized Athens / They then made the main body an arsenal Se a powder magazine, & they therefore had to close with walls the five between -columns on the face, & the five porfesqui were opposite. But lightning set fire to the powders of this store in 16 ° and blew up the "ceiling of this building and the accommodation of Ysouf-Aga who was desolated. This Turk perishes from this manner with all his family, except one of his daughters, & the Greeks looked upon this event as a miracle, because Ysoûf-Agà had to accomplish the next day after the accident happened. the project he had formed to destroy one of their Eglises', called Saint Dimitrii who. was at the foot of the Museum. -I restmé the monument of the Propylaea on the partitions of the old Authors who relate to it, which I have already quoted V '. & On the measures which I took there. I gave the perspective view. In the second Part, Plate XII,